Homeade still not really producing..

Do another cleaning run with vinegar- just crank the heat until it starts producing and then dial it down to the drip rate you want.

When I’m distilling spirits I do it the same way- crank the heat until it starts producing- dial back the heat until I have 6-8 drips a second.

Give that a shot and report back

6-8 drops a sec BeverageCommander? LMAO????

You can not try to run it at the boiling point you will produce nothing but a drip or so every min. To many noobs try to run shit at the boiling point with a thermometer and it flat out will not work for you that way. You need to run hot low 200s F to produce anything. You must add water and use an ethanol hydrometer to proof it if you want it anything like store vodka which shine is VODKA not whiskey. If your pipes are making the booze green/blue just use a coffee filter it will catch all that copper no need to use shitty youtube info on cleaning stills just listen to me someone who knows how to shine no one knows more than me on this website. If on a stove top use the smallest burner.

You would not run into copper in the drink if you ran a water pump set up, no need for a worm a worm is only needed if doing it in the woods. I would show a water pump how to with only 6 inches of copper if i can find a way to post a pic without it being a link.,,,,?????

Ill see if I can post my white fuel set up its 100% same as ethanol and shit it’s a still but for my atv engine.

I just joined this site…. every excited to learn and collaborate with other shiners… after reading the reply’s above. I am scared at the level of people that might be here. I hope I am wrong….

So, Mr Brewing bean.Beverage is correct. run the still hot while cleaning. as you are trying to make steam not alcohol at that point.
As for when you run wash through the still, that is when you will run below the 212 temp. Yes PURE ETHANOL alcohol has a boiling point of 174, but remember you make your mash with water, so the ethanol made is diluted with h2o.
The amount of ethanol in your mash (meaning how strong your mash became) will effect the actual temp you start seeing drips. (remember the bad methanol evaps around 148 if pure, and most likely a much higher temp when diluted in water, so always through out the first 5% of take you get, as it can cause blindness)
Most mashes are around 8-12% a.b.v. so the evap temp will be more like 195 to 205…. Try to keep the still temp below the 212, because this will only create steam and steam is water, and it will water down your final shine as it comes out of the still.

another important note, dont bring the wash up to temp to quick, it will foam up or boil, this foam or boil over (Like pasta in a covered pot) will “puke” into the worm and clog it. the shine will stop flowing but more importantly the clog means you are building psi… that is never good. so bring your temps up slow and easy. once the shine starts flowing, play with the temp to keep a nice slow drip / trickle

Mash is all the ingredients mixed and fermenting. Wash is all the solids and chunks removed ready to run in the still.

I hope that helps

Shiny Side UP!