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    • #2530

      Hey everyone!
      I bought a 10gal still from kyle at clawhammer. I was asking him a few questions and he told me to check out this forum. I have a few questions that will hopefully help me in the right direction. I had this all typed out before but I guess because I took a few days to finish it, when I hit submit, it didnt work. Timed out i guess. So im going to make this into a nut shell
      1. What kind of electircal burner should i use? coil or induction? I was told to upgrade from my 1000W to at least 1500W. Depends on the amps on the outlet.
      2. I currently have 1 pail, the still and the coil burner. What else should i get right now. I am trying to perfect the sugar mash right now as a starting point for learning.
      3. we drilled to big of a hole in the lid for the air lock. I taped the crap out of it but never saw any bubbles come out of it. Is the mash “spoiled” now? I was going to dump it anyways but just curious.
      4. If i start distilling and cant finish the full run. Does it hurt to leave in the still for a day, a week?

    • #2531

      Jim Welcome!
      1) I’ve been using a 1500 watt broil king with my 10 gallon still with great results. It does take a bit of time to get up to heat, but I just factor that into my distilling day. You can pick one up on amazon for around 120 or so.

      2) I would get a brewing hydrometer and a distilling hydrometer, an auto-siphon, an airlock and stopper.

      3) I would buy a new lid- they are pretty cheap at home depot. Use a step drill bit to drill the hole. I am assuming the co2 was escaping through the large hole- I am sure the mash is fine. If it does not smell off- run it- no need to waste it.

      4) I never stop a run- If I do I toss it and clean my still. I am not sure if it will affect the taste–but I would assume it would…maybe someone else can chime in on this?

    • #2532

      Perfect. Thank you!
      How long does it take for you to get up to heat and to do a 5 gal or 10 gal run?

    • #2533

      It takes me around 120 minutes to start producing with 1500 watts.
      It takes me around 60 minutes to start producing with 1500 watts.

    • #2534

      Hey Richard.
      Thank you for your knowledge. Its a huge help.
      I did get a new lid. I actually do have an airlock which came with a stopper

      Broil King:

      Brewing/Beer Hydro:

      Distilling/Spirit Hydro:

      Does that seem right? I think I need to do some more detailed reading. Not sure when you use those two

    • #2535

      That is the same broil king that I use- I have had no issues with it.
      The brewing hydromter looks good-
      The distilling hydromter looks good as well

      Hydrometer Test Jar (for use with hydrometer)

      Wort Chiller for cooling mash

    • #2537

      You use the beer hydrometer when you finish brewing, just after you’ve put the wash into the fermenter. This gives you your O G ( Origital Gravity ) this is a measure of how much sugar is in the wash. When it is done fermenting, you take another hydrometer reading for your FG (Finish Gravity). OG – FG divided by 0.79 x 100 = percent of Alcohol by volume. After you are done distilling, take a sample, placing it in a GLASS hydrometer jar ( not plastic) high proof alcohol will eventually dissolve it. Place your alcohol hydrometer in and take a reading to arrive at the proof of the distillate.
      Hope that helps.

    • #2538

      Great point on using a glass hydrometer jar! Plastic will fail–quickly- I started with plastic as that is what I had- ooops. Get a glass jar or better yet use a parrot.

      Do you know what your first recipe is going to be?
      Let us know your first recipe and what your process is going to be. We can give you some pointers-


    • #2635

      Hey guys. I haven’t forgot about this. Thank you so much for the info. You have no idea how much it helps.
      The mash that I’m hoping toget made this weekend is pretty basic for learning purposes.
      4.5gal of water, 8lbs of sugar, one package of yeast and one can of welchs white grape fruit concentrate.

    • #2650


    • #2651

      4.5 pounds of water
      8 pounds sugar
      one can welchs grape

      You should be in the target of around 10% or so- if you ferment down to 1.010 or so.

      I’m not sure how much flavor you are going to get from the concentrate- but it will adds sugar and won’t hurt anything. It sounds almost like an inmate wine of sorts.
      Looks fine- keep us posted!

    • #2652

      Once I have my final product made, I should be around 10% alcohol? I would like to be around 40% final. Maybe I won’t get that since this is an extremely rookie recipe.

      I was reading a few old post in this. Richard mentioned about getting a Wort Chiller. Why do I need that?
      Thanks! πŸ˜€

    • #2653

      The mash will be around 10%

      once you distill it- you should have a nice high proof spirit.

    • #2671

      what is the wort chiller for richard? I don’t understand why you need it. Can’t you just put the mash from the pail to the still and fire up the grill?

    • #2672

      what is the wort chiller for richard? I don’t understand why you need it. Can’t you just put the mash from the pail to the still and fire up the grill?

    • #2673

      Q) what is the wort chiller for?
      A) A wort chiller is used to cool the mash down to yeast pitching temperature. you don’t need one- you can just let the mash sit overnight until it is cool enough to add yeast or put the bucket into an ice bath until it is cool enough to pitch yeast. I like to cool my mash to about 70 before I pitch yeast. (follow the recommended temperature on the yeast packet)

      Q) Can’t you just put the mash from the pail to the still and fire up the grill?
      A) After you make the mash you add the yeast and let it ferment- once it is done fermenting you can transfer the wash into the still and fire up the grill.

      Step one- make a mash
      step two- cool the mash to yeast pitching temperatures (either use a wort chiller or let it sit overnight until pitching temp)
      step three- ferment the mash
      step four- let the yeast settle to the bottom of the fermenter
      step five- use an auto-siphon to transfer the liquid to the still leaving behind the yeast. (you can dump the wash into the still but you will be transferring yeast and other stuff you don’t want in the still)
      step six- fire up the grill

      Wort Chiller (for cooling mash before introduction of yeast)

    • #2698

      Hmmm thank you.
      When I tried making my first mash maybe 2 months ago. We just used water from the hose. Used 1/4 cup of 110f water and stirred in the yeast. Let it sit for a few mins and then put it in the mash. I would think that water from the house would probably be cooler than 70f. I knew the first mash would be trial and error and all this info is a Huge help

    • #2701

      My ground water from the tap varies depending on the time of the year. If the water is cooler than 70- just heat it up until you are around 70. I always do all grain mashes and mash around 150- so I always have to cool. If you are doing sugar shine mashes you don’t need to mash that high and will have to heat the water until about 70 or so.

      What was your recipe?

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