yellow corn meal
September 16, 2014 at 10:03 pm #2654
is Quaker corn meal u use in America for a mash the same as plenta coarse yellow cornmeal ??????
September 16, 2014 at 10:16 pm #2655
It should be very similar-
Polenta is coarse ground corn.
Cornmeal is dried corn that has been ground. It is coarser than flour.
I would think it should work the same- I have never used Polenta before though-
Are you planning on making a mash with it?
September 17, 2014 at 7:27 am #2659
jus found some natco cornmeal which says its freshly ground from the grain of golden yellow maize ground to super fine texture no added aditives… is this better than the polenta cornmeal I found ???
September 17, 2014 at 7:16 am #2658
so they should be the same then ?? I was going to do a 1gal mash with it jus to try it .. how much corn do I use and how much sugar?? iv got alcotec 48 yeast will this be ok but there 135gram packs which say to do a 25lit wash ?? I have some small packs of 5 gram champagne yeast too but they also say sufficient for 5 gall mix ????
September 17, 2014 at 2:57 pm #2661
I’ve never done a mash with cornmeal ( I use whole corn or flaked corn)
Is this your first mash you are making?
If this is the first mash- I would just do sugar and water. (get the basics and then go from there)
1 gallon water
1.8 pounds sugar
add 20 grams of the turbo yeast
September 17, 2014 at 4:38 pm #2662
yes im a beginner….!!! I did do a sugar mash which was 8kgs of sugar 21 lits of water and one pack of alcotec 48 left it 7 days and it was on 990 on the hydrometer and 10% on alcometer I then distilled it when I went over 174F it started to run I threw first 100ml as watched youtube and that’s what was said to do, then I collected 4 jars of 750ml @ 75% or 150 proof it has a strong smell (not that I know what it should smell like) it burns with a very blue flame … but I was scared to drink it as mates said that I could go blind if its made wrong … thoughts ?? do I throw it or how do I know if its dangerous ???
September 17, 2014 at 4:49 pm #2663
How big and what type is the still?
you were able to collect 4 750ml jars at 150 proof?
September 17, 2014 at 5:59 pm #2664
It was from a 25liter wash .got a 18liter still so did 2 cooks ..
That’s what the alcometer said 74% which I thought u doubled to get proof ??
It’s a stainless still still I can’t seem to attach picture of it .!! Is 4 x 750ml jars to much ??
September 18, 2014 at 3:28 pm #2666
Those numbers sound right for a 25 liter wash. Did you run that in a 25L still?
yes 74% would be 148 proof.
if you upload a picture to Photobucket or something similar you can link to the picture in here.
September 18, 2014 at 4:19 pm #2667
What should it smell and taste like how do I know it’s safe to cut and drink?? No stupidly I some how bought a 18 lit still so did big lot first then 9 lits second..
September 18, 2014 at 4:58 pm #2669
If you ditch the first 120ml or so on a 18l run you should be fine.
I always ditch 150ml on a 5 gallon run
300ml on a 10 gallon run
I also separate my heads and don’t add those to my final product-I pretty much only keep the best of the run (hearts) and save the tails and add them to the next batch.
Kyle has a good write up on his website-
If you are worried you have methanol in your shine- add it to your next batch re-distill it.
September 18, 2014 at 7:12 pm #2675
Oh rite didn’t know I could put it in my next mash b4 distilling… How do u know what’s heads hearts and tails???
September 18, 2014 at 7:22 pm #2676
Practice is the only way to improve your cuts.
kyle wrote a good article- that should help
here is a quick and dirty on cuts
Throw out the first 150 ml on a 5 gallon run- these are the foreshots
the heads come off the still first
the heads will turn into the hearts – this happens when it starts tasting good. Once it starts tasting good get a new jar and start collection the hearts.
Set the heads aside
Start collecting hearts. Keep collecting hearts until it starts to taste not as good… At that point you’ve made it to the tails. Stop collecting hearts – get a new jar and start collecting tails.
Keep collecting until you are at 10-20% ABV coming out of the still.
Save the tails and add those to the next run.
September 18, 2014 at 9:03 pm #2677
So how any ml of heads is there b4 hearts start ?? Ish ?? Or what temps do heads start and finish and tails start and finish ?? What resipe do u use for 5 gal wash for corn ?? And what yeast ?? When u say flake maize do u mean the stuff u get from a animal feedstore ??
September 18, 2014 at 9:12 pm #2678
The best way to start distilling-
get the smallest mason jars you can get
dump the foreshots.
start collecting the moonshine one small jar at time
label the first jar 1, the 2nd jar 2 and so on.
At the end of the run taste each jar- the low numbers are going to be heads, the middle hearts, the end tails.
This makes it easy to taste the difference between the run.
As you get better at making cuts continue to use small jars and number them- but when you make a cut start collecting in a new jar- number it and label it heads, hearts, or tails
Q)So how any ml of heads is there b4 hearts start
A) It depends on the starting ABV of the wash- how large the run is etc… there is not a set number.
Q) what temps do heads start and finish and tails start and finish
A) This will also depend on the starting ABV of the wash, the speed at which the still is running, what type of still etc.. Practice and tasting are the best ways to learn.
Q) And what yeast
A) I use bread yeast for a lot of my mashes- you can use any yeast- brewing yeast works well
Q) When u say flake maize do u mean the stuff u get from a animal feedstore ??
A) Flaked Maize is brewing corn which is different than feed corn. Flaked maize can easily be mashed (it is more expensive)
click this link to see flaked maize-
September 18, 2014 at 10:07 pm #2679
So if I wanted to do a 5 gall batch of flake maize what resipe would be best ?? What temp room and how long ?? Many thanks
September 18, 2014 at 10:14 pm #2680
September 19, 2014 at 7:00 am #2688
think I need some bigger pots …!!! lol
as for the water I am on a borehole spring water do I still need to test ph or will this water be ok untested ???
the beverage commander link is that for a 5gall wash ?? do u have a recipe for a smaller mash so I can use the kit iv already bought ???
September 19, 2014 at 3:57 pm #2690
The water will be fine- spring water is usually pretty good. I would not worry about PH until you have quite a few brews under your belt.
that recipe I posted is for a 5 gallon mash.
If you have a 5 gallon recipe you can just divide all the ingredients by 5 and that will give you a 1 gallon recipe.
September 19, 2014 at 7:18 pm #2692
When u say distillers malt ..! Wheat or barley ??
September 19, 2014 at 7:21 pm #2693
you can use 2 row, 6 row, maris otter etc…
this is what I use
September 19, 2014 at 7:27 pm #2694
Cool how long to ferment and at what temp the room got to be .. Remember it’s a lot colder over here
September 21, 2014 at 5:14 pm #2704
Ferment until it is done- you will need a brewing hydrometer if you don’t have one. Or just let it ferment until you don’t see any bubbles in the airlock. I’d say 5-10 days- depending on the mash. If you don’t have an airlock I’d get one because that is the only way to know your starting gravity and ending gravity- the only true way to know when your fermentation is finished.
I ferment between 68-74 for most yeast. The yeast packet should have the recommended temperature on it.
What yeast are you using.?
September 21, 2014 at 7:32 pm #2705
im going to try a 3 gallon wash so it all fits in my 18 lit still in one go …!! iv got 4 new fermentation vessels with airlock … I got a brewing hydrometer is that the one that goes from 1.200 upto 0.980 and u sink it in a long plastic tube to read ?? what should my start and finish be on it ?? iv got a alcohol calculator on my phone now to give og and fg it gives me % abv and % abw does the % abv give me the alcohol % so I can see on the ethanol chart when it will start coming out my still ???
September 21, 2014 at 7:36 pm #2706
depending on my recipes- my OG ranges from 1.055 to 1.075
Checkout this article on hydromters that Kyle wrote- it should answer most of your questions
checkout this article on distilling temps-
September 21, 2014 at 7:38 pm #2707
YEAST iv got alcotec 48 135gram packssays does 5 gall wash or allinson easy bake yeast 7gram packs it says 7grams make one large loaf of bread.. and champagne yeast in 5gram packs which says does 23lit wash … what do I use ???or what do I buy ??
September 21, 2014 at 7:39 pm #2708
I use two bread packs for a 5 gallon-
1- 1.5 packs would be good for a 3 gallon batch
September 21, 2014 at 7:47 pm #2710
what recipe would u advise Richard got a few fermentation vessels so jus as well try a few jus want something nice and drinkable ..!!1
September 21, 2014 at 7:53 pm #2711
Simple Mash In A Bag Single Malt Whiskey Recipe (3 Gallon Recipe)
4.5 gallons of water
7.5 Pounds Of Crushed US 2 Row (Pale Malt)
Dry Yeast ( Bread Yeast, Safale US-05 Ale Yeast, or any yeast you prefer)
Heat the water in the mash tun to 158F (this is called the strike water)
Once the strike water is at 158F add the mash bag and the crushed grains
Stir the grains with the mash paddle so there are no clumps or “dough balls”
Check the brewing thermometer and make sure the mash temperature is around 150
If the temperature is low, add heat or boiling water and stir. If the temperature is too hot, add ice and stir
Once the mash temperature is close to 150 add the lid and let mash for an hour. Add heat as needed while stirring to keep the temperature around 150
After 60 minutes carefully pull out the mash bag and let the liquid drip back into the pot
Once the wort is done dripping from the mash bag, insert the immersion chiller and chill the mash to yeast pitching temperature — normally 70 degrees, but refer to your yeast packet. If you don’t have an immersion chiller you can cool the mash with an ice bath
Take a hydrometer reading and write down the starting gravity
Once the mash has been chilled to yeast pitching temperature, transfer the mash with an auto-siphon to the fermentation vessel
Add the yeast to fermenter and then add the airlock
September 21, 2014 at 8:13 pm #2712
7.5 lbs pale malt is that barley?? If u don’t have mash bag does that mater??can u put it pot loose ??
September 21, 2014 at 8:16 pm #2713
7.5 malted barley
you need to use a mash bag- you can use cheesecloth, paint strainer bags..pantyhose. etc.. something to strain the grain from the water.
September 21, 2014 at 8:17 pm #2715
Ok cool so long as it holds the 7.5 lbs of grain will be fine then ??
September 21, 2014 at 9:29 pm #2716
exactly- just use some sort of “mesh” bag that will hold the grains-
September 21, 2014 at 9:33 pm #2717
Cheers … Do u know where I can get applepie spice to make applepie moonshine ??
September 21, 2014 at 9:36 pm #2718
Also do u not put any sugar in ur mash ???
September 21, 2014 at 9:36 pm #2719
September 21, 2014 at 9:38 pm #2720
I only do all grain mashes- I don’t use sugar.
The sugar comes from the grain.
You can do sugar mashes , but you won’t need as much grain. (or if the starting gravity is low add sugar to get it to where you want it)
September 22, 2014 at 10:32 am #2723
so ur starting og is usually 1.055 to 1.075 ?? what would be to low and where do I need to get it if using sugar ?? on your all grain mash what proof whiskey do you get ???
September 22, 2014 at 2:43 pm #2724
Q) why would be to low?
A) More is not always better. I keep the starting gravity somewhat low- I like my final ABV of my mash between 8-10% (normally closer to 8%) I feel the flavor is better at that percentage- the yeast does not get stressed- minimal off flavors. I go for quality and not quantity.
Q) where do I need to get it if using sugar ?
A) I personally don’t make sugar shine- but you can try and push it as hard as you like. I know some folks use turbo yeast and try and do really big sugar batches. I am not a fan of sugar shine- it is a good way to learn.
Q) On your all grain mash what proof whiskey do you get ???
A) I start producing around 140-150 and I’ll run my tails down to 10%- I make good cuts keeping the hearts, and saving the tails for the next run. I proof my whiskey around 90 proof with distilled water
September 23, 2014 at 12:53 pm #2729
is the malt to turn the starch to sugar in the flaked corn ??? as on some recipes it says to use amylase enzimes ????
September 23, 2014 at 1:07 pm #2730
Flaked corn is already processed so it can easily be broken down by the enzymes in the malt during the mash process.
You can use amylase enzymes instead of malt if you want to do 100% corn. I personally just use the malt as there are plenty of enzymes to convert the starches in the flaked corn.
That is the beauty of this hobby- many different ways to do the same thing.
September 23, 2014 at 4:58 pm #2733
is it always barley malt to use in these mashes ??? does it matter what barley malt ?? trying to buy some
crisp larger malt -light golden colour and sweet wort….
heavily peated malt-pheonal 36 very peaty….
dingemans pilsen malt- light in colour and low in protein,easily mashed with a single temperature infusion…
weyermann bohemian pilsner malt-used in pilsner largers & ale at a rate of upto 100% of the grist….
these are some I found advice please ????
September 23, 2014 at 5:29 pm #2734
oh and do I get it crused or uncrushed ???
September 23, 2014 at 11:41 pm #2737
Any of those grins will work- if you choose The heavy peated malt only use a small amount- too much of a good thing can be a bit overpowering.
I’d use the crisp lager malt if those were my choices- what website are you looking at?
buy it crushed if you don’t own a grain mill.
September 24, 2014 at 5:06 am #2738
its the malt millar website in the UK
September 24, 2014 at 2:37 pm #2741
checkout this —->
September 24, 2014 at 8:06 pm #2745
Yep that’s the one iv ordered it off
September 24, 2014 at 8:20 pm #2746
I’d go ahead and use the Pale Ale malt that was linked.
that will work well for the mashes
September 24, 2014 at 9:56 pm #2747
Once fermenting how long do u leave it after the bubbles stop ?? Do u use a 24 hour Setling agent befor u syphon wash to distill or do u jus distill as is after fermentation ??
September 24, 2014 at 9:58 pm #2748
Fermentation is usually finished between 5-14 days (depends on the mash)
The only true way to know when fermentation is finished is to use a hydrometer.
I don’t use any settling agents- I do let the mash settle for a few days after fermentation is finished before I transfer the liquid into the still
September 25, 2014 at 7:08 am #2752
Is finished around fg 1.000 or lower ?? When u syphon wash out do u try and leave a bit of wash so as to get as least amount of yeast in your still ?
September 25, 2014 at 3:09 pm #2753
It is finished when the gravity has not changed for 3 days in a row- I shoot for 1.010 or below- it depends on the mash- yeast- conditions etc… if you take a hydrometer reading 3 days in a row and it does not change it is finished.
Exactly- I leave behind all of the trub that settles do the bottom of the fermenter- I leave behind all of the yeast.
September 30, 2014 at 9:02 pm #2779
how do I check the PH of my water ?? and what should it be to do mash ?? how do I change it if it wrong ???
September 30, 2014 at 9:12 pm #2780
I would not focus too much on water chemistry the first few batches- I’d just get the process down- worry about that as you have everything else figured out.
the cheap and easy way- PH test strips- http://www.amazon.com/Beer-Making-Strips-4-6-6-2-Range/dp/B00D95Y9V4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1412111117&sr=8-2&keywords=water+ph+test+brewing
Usually you want the PH of the mash to hit between 5.2-5.5 I tend to shoot for higher PH’s (5.5) for maltier styles mashes.
Calcium Sulfate (CaSO4*2 H2O) a.k.a. Gypsum- will lower PH
Calcium Carbonate (CaCO3) – Chalk- will raise PH
Sodium Bicarbonate (NaHCO3) -Baking Soda will raise PH
October 2, 2014 at 7:37 pm #2784
jus did my 1st test run only did 3 gall wash divided the commander recipe by 5 to get 3 gall measures my starting gravity is 1.052 @ 26″C …. sound about rite ????????????
October 2, 2014 at 8:01 pm #2785
my starting gravity is usually around 1.070 when I make this recipe- but I get pretty good efficiency. 1.052 is fine- you will get between 5.5-6.5% depending on you ending gravity.
What was your ending gravity?
October 2, 2014 at 8:21 pm #2786
Only finished making mash an hour ago so not got that far yet ..!! Had a few snags with heating ect but will try again under better controll … Put 1 and a half 7 gram bread yeasts in it hope that will b ok ?
October 2, 2014 at 8:24 pm #2787
Sounds like you are on your way to a nice corn whiskey. Let it ferment in a dark place for 5-14 days- take a gravity reading a few days after it stops bubbling and report back
October 2, 2014 at 9:50 pm #2788
Why does it have to be dark ??
October 2, 2014 at 9:52 pm #2789
sunlight is not good for fermenting mash/beer.
Just put a dark towel around the carboy is if it glass- if it is in a bucket you are good.
October 2, 2014 at 10:15 pm #2790
Won’t be in direct sunlight but room is light ! It’s in a semi transparent bucket not see through and not clear ,u can see ur hand through it if u put ur hand up against the inside of the bucket !? Shall I put towel round it anyway ???
October 2, 2014 at 10:18 pm #2791
I would. It is an easy thing to do. Keeps the light out.
October 8, 2014 at 8:45 am #2814
now on day 6 and bubbles all seemed to of stopped already …. on 1.010 ?????
October 8, 2014 at 2:20 pm #2815BeerdcombParticipant
Depending on the yeast 1.010 might be as low as it goes.
Let it sit a few more days- take another gravity reading in 2 days- and the day after that- if it has not changed after the 3rd reading it is done. If it does change let it keep going until it does not change for 2-3 days in a row.
October 8, 2014 at 8:45 pm #2818
What could I of done to get better result ?? What sort of product u think I’ll get from this mash ??
October 8, 2014 at 9:56 pm #2819
If your starting gravity was around 1.052 and the final gravity is at 1.010 you are looking at around 5.51% ABV.
I’d wait a few more days to see if it drops any lower-
I’d just adjust the grain bill to hit closer to 1.070 or so- add more grains to the recipe.
I’m sure it will taste great- you will get a good product from it.
October 10, 2014 at 12:46 pm #2821
ok cool ill try more grain next time ….. with this 3 gall batch how much forshots do I throw away ?? and what sort of heads and hearts should I get ??
October 10, 2014 at 2:41 pm #2822BeerdcombParticipant
I always ditch the first 150 on a 5 gallon run-
I’d toss the first 90ml on a 3 gallon batch.
use small collection jars on your first run (use 4 oz if you can find them)
number each jar from 1 going up.
That way you can focus on the run but are still somewhat making cuts
at the end of the run taste each jar- the higest number jars will be the heads, middle the hearts, and the last jars the tails.
Run your you still until product is 20%
October 11, 2014 at 12:37 pm #2824
when its on 20% stop taking at that point ??
October 13, 2014 at 3:44 pm #2826
October 13, 2014 at 6:03 pm #2828
It’s in the still now and temp has got too 90″C and still nothing coming out what do I do or have I done wrong ?? Started at 1.054 and finished on 1.006 ..5.8% abv
October 13, 2014 at 6:40 pm #2829
Keep cranking the heat until you start producing. (Don’t worry about the temp)
Once it starts producing turn the heat down until you are getting 5-9 drips a second.
Worry about flow not temp!
October 13, 2014 at 9:30 pm #2830
Started at 94″C did 200ml of for shots which was 40% now on jar 6 and it’s dropped to 30% does this sound rite ??
October 13, 2014 at 9:32 pm #2831
what kind of still are you using? is your column packed?
October 13, 2014 at 10:11 pm #2832
Only a little 3 gall still with a small copper worm that sits on top of still not ideal as it gets heat off the still it’s self as it cooks away … Had 200ml first which was 40% then had 7 150ml jars of clear liquid from 38% down too 20% .. 1st jar is sharp as hell last jar almost tastes a little watery …!! Which jars are drinkable ??
October 13, 2014 at 10:30 pm #2833
the first jar or two is most likely heads (it will be sharp and will not taste great)
there should be a few middle jars is mostly hearts (it will taste the best)
the last jars will be tails (mostly water and fusel alcohols)
taste each jar and find the middle ones that taste the best.
don’t drink the first stuff (foreshots) dump those and everything else is safe (might not all taste great)
Hope that helps
October 14, 2014 at 5:23 pm #2836
Uv been heaps of help thanks … Tasted it all and as u say it’s all very different … Is it better to have the heads or tails left in the product ??
October 14, 2014 at 5:25 pm #2837
I keep me hearts separate from both the heads and tails.
I save the tails for the next batch- i just toss them into the still with the next wash.
October 14, 2014 at 6:35 pm #2838
what do u do with heads ??? I know u try to keep them separate but whats worse if u have a little heads in ur mix or tails ?? trying to work out wether to keep jar number 3 bit of heads in the mix or jar number 6 bit of tails ???
October 14, 2014 at 6:39 pm #2839
Heads I use for cleaner- or i’ll re-run them.
A bit of heads or tails will add flavor and complexity to the final spirit. Maybe do a bit of each jar? That is where the art and fun come into play- figure out what you like better and mix those jars together.
October 21, 2014 at 9:35 pm #2854
improvements made 1st batch was 1.054 sg ended 1.006 wash made today after ur advice of adding more malt was 1.066…..now the 5 to 10 wait till next distill
October 22, 2014 at 12:58 am #2855
Right on! Keep us posted on the progress!
October 25, 2014 at 12:19 pm #2858
Only on day 5 and already down too 1.000 gravity… What sort of % moonshine will this produce?
October 25, 2014 at 4:50 pm #2859
1.000 final gravity
you are lookin around 8.66%
April 13, 2015 at 10:49 am #3429
well I had a few attempts of the moon shine and was very nice thanks for all ur help on that ,,, im now interested to make some honey shine ….!!! bit unsure what yeast to use and how long it takes to ferment …. what iv read is 1 gall of honey to 4 galls of water for a 5 gall batch is this correct ???
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