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Richard Coleman, Jr

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Viewing 15 posts - 76 through 90 (of 178 total)
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  • in reply to: Moved: mash and hydrometer question #2849

    When you floated the hydrometer in the mash before you added the yeast what did the hydrometer say?
    I like to see 1.060 to 1.075- depending on my mash ( I do all grain mostly)

    Fermentation is done when the hydrometer has not changed for 2-3 days in a row.
    I like to see 1.010 or below- most of mine will ferment down to 1.000

    in reply to: MOVED: Original Gravity #2843

    I would just add the sugar to the mash without boiling- just mix it with a sterilized mash paddle or spoon and take reading after each pound. If you already added the yeast I would just let it do its thing and not add anymore sugar.
    if you ferment 1.106 down to 1.010 you will get 12.60%
    if you ferment 1.106 down to 1.000 you will get 13.91%

    in reply to: yellow corn meal #2780

    I would not focus too much on water chemistry the first few batches- I’d just get the process down- worry about that as you have everything else figured out.

    this is a great book – http://www.amazon.com/Water-Comprehensive-Brewers-Brewing-Elements/dp/0937381993/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412111066&sr=8-1&keywords=brewing+and+water

    the cheap and easy way- PH test strips- http://www.amazon.com/Beer-Making-Strips-4-6-6-2-Range/dp/B00D95Y9V4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1412111117&sr=8-2&keywords=water+ph+test+brewing

    or more expensive PH tester- http://www.amazon.com/Oakton-EcoTestr-Waterproof-Tester-Range/dp/B004G8PWAU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1412111162&sr=8-3&keywords=ph+water+meter

    Usually you want the PH of the mash to hit between 5.2-5.5 I tend to shoot for higher PH’s (5.5) for maltier styles mashes.

    Calcium Sulfate (CaSO4*2 H2O) a.k.a. Gypsum- will lower PH

    Calcium Carbonate (CaCO3) – Chalk- will raise PH
    Sodium Bicarbonate (NaHCO3) -Baking Soda will raise PH

    in reply to: Brew in a Bag- Help Needed #2774

    I’d shoot them an email or give them a call- see what they say.
    Tell them you are doing a brew in a bag

    in reply to: Blueberry Shine #2767

    I’d follow this post but replace blueberries for strawberries

    How to Make Strawberry Moonshine

    in reply to: Brew in a Bag- Help Needed #2763

    Looks like a good one-

    watch that video and checkout my directions-

    let me know if you are still unclear after that- it is a fairly easy process- the video should make you feel less stressed.

    in reply to: Brew in a Bag- Help Needed #2755

    Do you have a link to the kit you bought?

    I am assuming you are doing a brew in a bag?

    1) heat the strike water to 72C
    2) Add the grain bag to the pot
    3) add the grains to the grain bag (after you add the grains stir them up really well- you don’t want any dough balls) This will lower the temp to your mash temp which is 66-67c. Take a temperature reading after you mix it (you should be close to 66-67c) – -Put the lid on your pot
    4)Let the grains mash for an hour
    5) after an hour of mashing- pull out the grain bag- let it drain back into the kettle

    6) Once the grain bag is out turn the heat up to high to get it to boil
    7) Once you are boiling set the alarm for 90 minutes
    8) add 15 grams of galaxy at 90 minutes
    9) add 45 grams with 15 minutes left in the boil
    10) the last 40 grams are used in the fermenter (on day 12 add the hops to a hop bag into the fermenter)

    11) after the boil is finished cool the wort to 21c (put the kettle into the kitchen sink, add ice, add water) stir the work as this cool it quicker. You might have to drain and fill the sink a few times.
    12) once the wort is at 21c transfer it to the fermenter
    13) add the yeast to the fermenter
    14) add the airlock to the fermenter
    15) leave the carboy in a dark place for 2 weeks trying to keep the temp steady near 20c

    checkout this video on brew in a bag- it might help

    in reply to: yellow corn meal #2753

    It is finished when the gravity has not changed for 3 days in a row- I shoot for 1.010 or below- it depends on the mash- yeast- conditions etc… if you take a hydrometer reading 3 days in a row and it does not change it is finished.

    Exactly- I leave behind all of the trub that settles do the bottom of the fermenter- I leave behind all of the yeast.

    in reply to: yellow corn meal #2748

    Fermentation is usually finished between 5-14 days (depends on the mash)
    The only true way to know when fermentation is finished is to use a hydrometer.
    I don’t use any settling agents- I do let the mash settle for a few days after fermentation is finished before I transfer the liquid into the still

    in reply to: yellow corn meal #2746

    Great-
    I’d go ahead and use the Pale Ale malt that was linked.

    that will work well for the mashes

    in reply to: Shine #2743

    How many pounds of sugar did you use?
    what yeast did you use?

    checkout kyle’s article on hydrometers- youtube is also very useful

    http://www.clawhammersupply.com/blogs/moonshine-still-blog/12044309-how-to-use-a-hydrometer

    in reply to: yellow corn meal #2741
    in reply to: yellow corn meal #2730

    Flaked corn is already processed so it can easily be broken down by the enzymes in the malt during the mash process.

    You can use amylase enzymes instead of malt if you want to do 100% corn. I personally just use the malt as there are plenty of enzymes to convert the starches in the flaked corn.

    That is the beauty of this hobby- many different ways to do the same thing.

    in reply to: yellow corn meal #2724

    Q) why would be to low?
    A) More is not always better. I keep the starting gravity somewhat low- I like my final ABV of my mash between 8-10% (normally closer to 8%) I feel the flavor is better at that percentage- the yeast does not get stressed- minimal off flavors. I go for quality and not quantity.

    Q) where do I need to get it if using sugar ?
    A) I personally don’t make sugar shine- but you can try and push it as hard as you like. I know some folks use turbo yeast and try and do really big sugar batches. I am not a fan of sugar shine- it is a good way to learn.

    Q) On your all grain mash what proof whiskey do you get ???
    A) I start producing around 140-150 and I’ll run my tails down to 10%- I make good cuts keeping the hearts, and saving the tails for the next run. I proof my whiskey around 90 proof with distilled water

    in reply to: yellow corn meal #2720

    I only do all grain mashes- I don’t use sugar.
    The sugar comes from the grain.

    You can do sugar mashes , but you won’t need as much grain. (or if the starting gravity is low add sugar to get it to where you want it)

Viewing 15 posts - 76 through 90 (of 178 total)