BeverageCommander
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BOOG2WW-
what liquid are you using in your thumper to start?I don’t push my mash past 8%- I notice harsh flavors if I do. I do all grain mashes ( I don’ do much with sugar)
My pot still starts producing heads around 140- and I run my tails down to 10%.
If I am doing a spirit run I always add all of the tails from my previous run into the batch of wash I’m distilling. ( I don’t add the heads)If I am doing a stripping run I collect everything in 2 1 gallon glass jars- I don’t make cuts and run the still down to 10% (10 gallon still)
If you want to get a higher proof in a pot still I recommend doing stripping runs. Do enough stripping runs to collect enough spirits to fill the still. I have a 10 gallon still and it takes me between 4-5 stripping runs to collect enough for a spirit run.
Once you have collected enough stripping runs then do a spirit run- you will get a much higher proof and a a much cleaner product.If you are using 5 pounds of sugar currently in your mash- the starting alcohol is only around 6% which is a bit low-
Remember that distilling concentrates the alcohol in the wash– it does not create alcohol.
You will get a gallon total out of a 5 gallon run with starting ABV around 15%- that includes the heads,hearts,and tails- so that includes the entire run- assuming you are going to run your tails down to 20% or so.
A 5 gallon run with a starting alcohol of 10%, a final proof of 100, and a collection efficiency of 85% will yield .85 gallons.
A 5 gallon run with a starting alcohol of 20%, a final proof of 100, and a collection efficiency of 85% will yield 1.7 gallons.If you are doing a spirit run you want to run it slow- 5-7 drips a second (less than a full stream)
If you are doing a stripping run you want to run it hot and fast- but you only want to do this for a stripping run.
The alcohol from multiple stripping runs are saved – add all that to a still and do a spirit run.Don’t run a spirit run hot and fast- you can’t make good cuts and you will waste a lot of good booze.
Fleishmann might work for 12% but it is pushing it….
I suggest using a distillers yeast:
Keep us posted- I have a feeling it is going to be a more expensive sugar shine.
What kind of yeast are you using?
currently you are using 5 pounds of sugar in a 5 gallon wash will give you a starting gravity around 1.046
if you ferment that down to 1.000 or below you are looking at around a 6% ABV washIf you use 10 pounds of sugar you will get a starting gravity around 1.092
If you ferment that down to 1.000 or below you are looking at around a 12% ABV washThat is a pretty high starting gravity and you will need a yeast which can handle a high alcohol mash-
I don’t do much with sugar shine- but hopefully that helps
Good stuff on dumping the foreshots
It sounds like you collected everything in the one jar.
You will get a much better tasting final product if you make good cuts-I would recommend on the next run- using very small collection jars (because you are using such a small still)
label each jar (start with 1 and go up)
You will be able to notice the different parts of the run this way- it is a good way to start to learn about cuts
Give each jar a taste at the end of the run- you will be able to tell the heads,hearts,tails – we are after the hearts- that is the good stuff.
Once you have a few runs down you will be able to make the cuts while running-You will be fine.
I’d add the sugar then let it cool down to 80-90 before you add the yeast.You did not hurt anything by boiling it.
It will turn out fine.
What is the full recipe?
Did you add enzymes or sugar to the mash? Is it just cornmeal?
you will be fine.
Just leave itTemperature will vary depending on:
Elevation
Starting ABV of the washThere is a good chart on the clawhammer site:
http://www.clawhammersupply.com/blogs/moonshine-still-blog/12243869-making-moonshine-still-temperatureRick- I agree with most old school guys..but I do use my boiler thermometer more than I would like to admit—It is very helpful while the still is heating up- I like the ability to glance at the temp as it gives me a really good idea how close I am to producing product. If I were to install one- I would do the boiler. That being said I have one in my boiler and column- I use them mainly for notes and reference during a run.
What temp should we be looking for?
I would focus more on the speed of the product coming out of the stil- temperature is important but I mainly use it to make notes on my runs. Here is what I do-Crank the heat on my still until it starts to produce (the boiler temp will read around 190 or so when it starts producing- I use my boiler thermometer as a guide for how long it is going to take to heat up)
As soon as it starts to produce I turn the heat down until I have a slight trickle- 5-8 drips a second- (I don’t like to see a stream)
Dump the first 2/3 of a shot glass that comes off of the still- this will be methanol
Use small collection jars- and label them starting with 1 and go up. (with a 1 gallon still I would use very small collection jars as it is hard to make tight cuts with a small still)
Make notes while distilling- what was the boiler temp when you started producing?
What was the vapor temp when you started producing?
What was the temp for jar 1
what was the temp for jar 2…down the lineI use temp as a tool- it is helpful but it is not everything.
I understand that pure ethanol boils at 174 F and water at 212 F.
It sounds like the yeast is doing its thing-
It is done once fermentation is done- the easiest way to tell that is once the hydrometer reading has not changed for 3 days in a row.
Checkout this article for info on using a hydrometer: http://www.clawhammersupply.com/blogs/moonshine-still-blog/12044309-how-to-use-a-hydrometer
