Forum Replies Created
Ferment until it is done- you will need a brewing hydrometer if you don’t have one. Or just let it ferment until you don’t see any bubbles in the airlock. I’d say 5-10 days- depending on the mash. If you don’t have an airlock I’d get one because that is the only way to know your starting gravity and ending gravity- the only true way to know when your fermentation is finished.
I ferment between 68-74 for most yeast. The yeast packet should have the recommended temperature on it.
What yeast are you using.?
Nice! I would keep doing what you are doing. Checkout that book that Richard linked- it is really good- nerdy but good.
Most packets SHOULD (but for some reason many don’t) have directions on them- stating how large of a batch the yeast is good for.
I always add 4 grams of dried yeast per gallon of mash. If you are doing 20 gallons I would add 80 grams or 2.82 ounces of dried yeast.
I am sure you already know- I’m not a huge fan or turbo yeast unless it is being used on a 100% sugar mash. I feel it leaves some not so desirable flavors behind. If you have not tried other yeats I’d give them a try. Brewers yeast, distillers yeast, ale yeast, bread yeast, etc.
My ground water from the tap varies depending on the time of the year. If the water is cooler than 70- just heat it up until you are around 70. I always do all grain mashes and mash around 150- so I always have to cool. If you are doing sugar shine mashes you don’t need to mash that high and will have to heat the water until about 70 or so.
What was your recipe?
you can use 2 row, 6 row, maris otter etc…
this is what I use
The water will be fine- spring water is usually pretty good. I would not worry about PH until you have quite a few brews under your belt.
that recipe I posted is for a 5 gallon mash.
If you have a 5 gallon recipe you can just divide all the ingredients by 5 and that will give you a 1 gallon recipe.
If you ditch the first 120ml or so on a 18l run you should be fine.
I always ditch 150ml on a 5 gallon run
300ml on a 10 gallon run
I also separate my heads and don’t add those to my final product-I pretty much only keep the best of the run (hearts) and save the tails and add them to the next batch.
Kyle has a good write up on his website-
If you are worried you have methanol in your shine- add it to your next batch re-distill it.
Those numbers sound right for a 25 liter wash. Did you run that in a 25L still?
yes 74% would be 148 proof.
if you upload a picture to Photobucket or something similar you can link to the picture in here.
I’ve never done a mash with cornmeal ( I use whole corn or flaked corn)
Is this your first mash you are making?
If this is the first mash- I would just do sugar and water. (get the basics and then go from there)
1 gallon water
1.8 pounds sugar
add 20 grams of the turbo yeast
4.5 pounds of water
8 pounds sugar
one can welchs grape
You should be in the target of around 10% or so- if you ferment down to 1.010 or so.
I’m not sure how much flavor you are going to get from the concentrate- but it will adds sugar and won’t hurt anything. It sounds almost like an inmate wine of sorts.
Looks fine- keep us posted!
I keep my bread yeast that comes in jars into the fridge. I keep the bread yeast that comes in packets at room temp (as that is how it is sold) I store all of my brewing yeast in the fridge. I don’t use turbo yeast as I find it leaves behind some off flavors, but I’d prob toss it in the fridge. I’d use the packet that has been in the shed and if you don’t see any activity after 24 hours toss in the new stuff. I bet the shed yeast will work though.
nope- the still will be fine boiling.
keep us posted.
I always strain my grains before I ferment, but a lot of guys strain after. I find it easier and cleaner to do before (like in brewing)
I would dump a few gallons of white vinegar into the still and let it boil for an hour. Dump the vinegar on the weeds in your driveway.(it will kill grass etc) Rinse it out really well with water-
I would then follow it
up with a PBW (pro brewery wash) which can be found at your local homebrew shop (or online) http://www.biyhomebrewsupply.com/products/pbw1lb
Make a solution of the PBW to fill the entire still-follow the directions on the package but I think it works best at 160 degrees (or something like that) That should help, repeat if you still have issues.
It will clear with time-
let it ferment out- it will take a few days to weeks to totally clear.
To really help with the clearing once it is done fermenting cold crash the fermenter.
What I suggest is letting it ferment out totally- should take a few days.
once it is done fermenting cold crash if you can
After it cold crashes use an auto-siphon to transfer to the still if you are going to run it- or transfer to another carboy if you are going to let it sit longer-
this is how much yeast is usually left behind-