BeverageCommander
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I have the clawhammer 10 gallon still-
The condenser arm works fine for me- I’ve never had any issues with vapor not condensing back into a liquid. I don’t use a pump- I just hook a hose from my faucet to my condenser (the lower tee is in, upper is out) and a put it on a slow trickle– you don’t need much flow at all. You might want to put valve after the pump so you can adjust the flow- You don’t need much flow at all.Just let it sit- There is no need to mix it.
Did you add any enzymes to the cracked corn?
When you say to make a spirit run, you’re saying to run the final product from the mash after all the runs have been made?
Correct- a spirit run will the slow run where good cuts are made
Bull-
This is a recipe I run often:
http://beveragecommander.com/blogs/beverage-commander-blog/14191647-corn-whiskey-moonshine-mash-recipeSkip-
I’m not sure what recipe you are referring to?Can you post the recipe?
Here is a recipe that I use a lot (I average around 1.070 for a starting gravity)
http://beveragecommander.com/blogs/beverage-commander-blog/14191647-corn-whiskey-moonshine-mash-recipeIt ferments out dry- Final gravity is always 1.000 or below with the Whiskey yeast I use.
Alcohol Content of the wash is 9.2%
Dave,
I own the clawhammer 10 gallon still:-
They use 16 ounce for the main boiler, boiler bottom, vapor cone, collar, everything except for the cap plate. The cap plate is the piece that accepts the Column and is thicker- I am guessing it is 14 or 15 ounce copper.If you are building anything larger than 10 gallons I would suggest using thicker copper-
got my new hot plate in yesterday and did a run last night. after the first two cups (heads) though to keep the drip at around 4 drips per sec. I had to turn my heat up to 208°-211°. my question is that if water boils at 214° (going off memory from high school hope that’s right) wouldn’t my still quit producing alcohol and only produce water at that point?
claw hammer 1 gal still and broil king 1500 watt hot plate. I take a shot glass worth for my foreshots and 2 cups for heads, hearts, and tails.Where are you measuring the heat? The boiler temp is going to be different than the column temp. Water boils at 212 at sea level- here is a chart with boiling points and elevation.: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/boiling-points-water-altitude-d_1344.html
The longer the still runs the more heat is needed to extract vapor from the still- as you near 212 you will be pulling mostly water out of the still as all of alcohol (which has a lower boiling point than water) will have already been boiled off. If you have a proofing hydrometer you could take a sample at the end of the run – it will a low % of alcohol.
Some folks worry about the materials that coat the lid.
If you are worried about that I would just replace the lid with sheet copper.As long as you dumped your foreshots it should be fine- I’d just save it and add dump it in with your next run.
It is a 5 gallon recipe- you can double everything for a 10 gallon batch.
Use one pack of the whiskey yeast for 5 gallons.
You might need to try some experimenting- I’d start with a low dose and keep adding until you hit the flavor profile you are after.
I use StarSan for sanitizing: http://www.biyhomebrewsupply.com/products/starsan8oz
I use PBW for cleaning everything: http://www.biyhomebrewsupply.com/products/pbw1lb
I feel it is important to clean and then to sanitize.
Right on-
Sounds like a winner!
keep us posted
Please keep us posted!
